But picture for me an American eating a bagel somewhere in Belgium, while sipping beer imported from Bolivia, simultaneously browsing the Dutch-language television channels only to happen upon a travel/cooking show hosted by a British biker-duo as they peruse through major sites across India.
In this globalized world of ours, I would not be entirely shocked to find such a combination.
And it could well happen if you know where to look in Brussels. Hence, the following submission.
And please pay no mind to the overwhelming--though hopefully not bothersome--bombardment of b's, as Brussels, Belgium, and Beckers (the street upon which I live), have a subconscious and contagious effect on me.
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Behold the Beer and Bars of Brussels, Belgium
Below is a quick word or few on local watering holes of honorable mention, accompanied by a list of the beers and krieks I have tried--or at least remember trying--upon moving to Brussels.
Delirium Café
Impasse de la Fidélité 4A
[city centre, down a small alleyway, just opposite of Jeanneke Pis--not to be confused with Manneken Pis]
http://www.deliriumcafe.be/
Are you jones'n for a beer or cider not found in your local supermarket? Care to browse a phone-book size listing of brews from your A to V's? (Angola to Vietnam, that is)
Sounds deleterious--wait, I mean delirious. Doesn't it?
Delirium is by no means representative of a traditional Belgian café or brasserie. But it certainly exists as one of the only places to find locals and tourists in harmonious intoxication year round.
The atmosphere in the cave is, as one would expect, quite dark, perhaps a tad damp, and yes, teeming with metaphorical rats. Beware the former wine casks that serve as your tables, as their tops are often warped and leave your drink vulnerable to spill with the gentlest of nudges.
Also pay mind to petty thieves and the unfortunate aggressive drones who, at the slightest of accidental eye contact made, will gladly fasten themselves to you for the remainder of the evening as they engage in a sinewous attempt to take you home.
For better results, try the ground floor just to the right of the entrance. The tables are much more stable, the air cleaner, the decor chipper, and the general disposition of patrons on this floor is less intrusive.
So why venture to the cave, you ask? Well, each floor serves a different beer on tap (of which there are 25+ per floor). Osmosis of the crowd, I suppose.
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La Morte Subite [The Sudden Death]
Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagères 7
[city centre, just east of La Bourse]
Characterized as a traditional Belgian brasserie and famous for its own brand of beers and krieks, I present unto you La Morte Subite. The art-nouveau accents are mildly indicative of what you might find in Ixelles or Etterbeek communes of Brussels. They certainly coordinate well with the vaulted ceiling and interior walls draped with mirrors spotted from age.
At some point during your visit, I also suggest that you take the grand staircase to the first floor and look over the railing to gaze down upon the handful of waiters bustling about in synchronized, maddening motion. And it is only from above that the spectacle below resembles a giant art-nouveau game of frogger as each server, tray of drinks in hand, miraculously darts across aisles congested with bumbling tourists too entranced by the decor to pay notice.
Ready your appetite for traditional croques, sandwiches, sausages, cheese platters, and omelets. But let's be quite honest here. You really just wanted to sample the beer. And so I have provided you a front-seat view of the bar:
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Café Belga
Eugène Flageyplein 18
[Place Flagey, just south of Frites Flagey]
Come aboard this little beauty and discover why I made La Belga my local favorite. It is almost cafeteria-like in its design, with food and drinks ordered at separate counters and carried back to your table in trays. But there is a familial, coffee house, "perfect for sunday brunch" touch to the place different from the days of Morrison's.
The food selection varies--with soups, salads, sandwiches, and other cold appetizers always present, and at a price that is most reasonable. Then, there is the added bonus of a non-smoking interior, coupled with live jazz and d.j. nights interspersed throughout the week. You can find a small selection of beers on tap and a few more provided in bottle, but I recommend the mint tea; a warm cup of freshly steamed herbs, with customary spekulaas in hand, makes for quite the content Kat.
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Goupil le Fol [The Mad Fox]
Rue de la Violette 22
[city centre, due east of the Grand Place]
Think estate sale of the most eclectic, eccentric, and maybe even ecclesiastical. Wind your way up a seriously narrow circular staircase to discover that no wall or ceiling of the establishment's four floors is without ornamentation. I am especially fond of their house made fruit wines and a juke box of whose musical menu is a prismatic reflection of the decor.
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Le Poechenellekelder [The House of Marionettes]
Eikstraat 5
[city centre, opposite of Manneken Pis]
Disarm your spell check. This is a Bruxelloise word, hence a combination of French and Dutch.
I mentioned a bar well-known for its marionette decor in a previous submission on Toone Theater. This particular cafe, just minutes away from Toone, also teems with marionnettes. Though, to be fair, there is a more pronounced emphasis on Manneken Pis.
Same as A La Morte Subite, small dishes can be ordered. Their beer selection is quite extensive, bordering 100+. I have also included a photograph of their Christmas menu. Note the generous alcohol content. Tis the season to be jolly...
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Beers in Belgium: A case study
I included "Freelance Researcher" on my name card with good reason, as this short list might serve you well--with the assumption, of course, that 1) our preferences align and 2) these particular beverages are geographically available to you for purchase.
Recommended without hesitation:
Gueuze Jacobins:
Finally, a gueuze worth guzzling! I wrote before of my negative reception towards gueuze, the lambic beer made famous by the Belgians. But it seems as though this particular gueuze (of which a student of the French Revolution would naturally choose) is without that tangy, bitter, bite--perhaps uncharacteristic of the Jacobins, as some historians might suggest.
Delirium Nocturum:
I usually keep an arm's distance when it comes to ales and stouts, but this was chosen on accident. And as luck would have it, my taste-buds received it well. Perhaps it gives hope for those less inclined to choose a darker brew.
Leffe Brune:
A good friend recommended this Leffe--which coincidentally enough--played a role in the French Revolution! Well, not exactly...but the brewery supposedly fell victim to the hands of revolutionaries in 1794. In any case, it is deliciously smooth and inviting.
Tripel Karmeleit
A gentle caramel taste does a body good. But to have such a drink with a deceptively high alcohol content of 8% would do a body harm, don't you think?
Trappists: Orval, Chimay Bleue, and Chimay Blanche
Brewed by monks of the Trappist order, these ales are delicious in their own right. And with as much as 7-11% alcohol by volume...well, perhaps there is a fair balance in a life of devout spiritual devotion and celibacy.
Floris Passion Fruit:
True to its name, some might find its sweet disposition a bit too passionate for their tastes. Indeed, its aroma is quite strong, but I find its taste to be mild in proportion to its scent. Then again, I can never pass on anything passion fruit, so I'm admittedly biased.
St. Louis Kriek
Of all the krieks sampled thus far (including Morte Subite, Floris, and Lindeman's), this particular mark tops the sundae. Trust me with this morello-cherry tangy concoction with just enough sweet to make you pucker up for more.
Faro
A lambic cider with a caramelized tint, which is only customary for having been made from brown sugar and molasses. Think dry, yet with a mild hint of the sweet we Americans are accustomed to with ciders of the Woodchuck and Hornsby varieties.
Duvel
A Flemish brew with a name derived from the dutch word for "devil." And tempt you, it just might.
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Ehh...one time at most. Or better yet, settle for a sip of your acquaintance's
[I suggest your acquaintance simply because friends don't let friends spend money on the following beverages.]
La Chouffe Blonde:
A slightly dry blonde, but nothing exceptional. The label is quite cute, so adding to its appeal.
Floris Pomme (apple):
It was a bit chewy, as if you carbonated a diluted solution of apple compote and evaporated all the flavor you might expect from a fruit lambic.
Floris Cactus:
There is a lot of hype and expectation surrounding this one, but I was disappointed to find that it was more akin to a panache than anything else.
Vedett Blonde:
A safe choice. And a slice of lemon adds to the experience, but then again, I'm always one for adding a little fiber or 100% real fruit juice to my diet.
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If you are a gastronomic masochist:
Pink Killer:
Yes, by far the most ill-satisfying of my choices. Its color and taste are fairly reminiscent of soap in the mouth.
Mystic Citron Vert:
If someone hands you a tarte au citron vert, take it. It should taste something like key lime pie. But if someone were to offer you a Mystic Citron Vert, you'll know to politely decline. Watery, panache-y, and essentially a waste of your hard-earned caloric intake.
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Onto a subject of a different grain!
The State of Bagels in Brussels
As with France, Belgian boulangeries and patisseries procreate on a daily basis. Exaggerate, I do not. They really have a way of dotting every street corner, alongside snack and alimentation shops or pharmacies. And while many people can (and do) appreciate a pain au chocolat or tarte aux frambroises, those stricken with contemptible gall bladders just cannot enjoy most butter-laden carbohydrate fabrications like the rest.
And then there are those who desire something with a little more fibrous "oomph" than a customary baguette.
So what is one left to do? Find a whole wheat bagel and some schmear, of course! Hence, my quest.
Without choice, bagels exist as part of my staple diet. I credit my parents for having us spend every Sunday morning at the Bagel Bar in Miami Lakes, circa 1989-1994. But, regardless, reason should have it that, when bagels become hardly accessible, nay impossible to find, my hunger pangs naturally begin. So I find myself trying to satiate this craving in Brussels, cream cheese or not.
I stumbled upon only four shops in my quest, two of which I dined at so far:
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Sens Bagel
62 rue Armand Campenhout, 1050 Ixelles, Brussels, Beglium
(near the intersection of Avenue Louise and Rue du Magistrat)
If you have the hankering for a bagel and drink combination, with only 5 euros in your pocket to spare, there is hope in the form of Sens.
 |
| Je me sens [I feel] like a bagel, and perhaps it is this exact sentiment Sens Bagel projects onto innocent passersby with this hearty, humousy handful. |
They serve only four kinds of bagels (plain, wheat, poppy, and sesame--of which they bake on-site), yet there is a lengthy two-column list of toppings (including the ever-elusive cream cheese) and a good handful of sandwich creations (ham, chicken, salmon, oh--and hamburger, too).
Seating is made available on the terrace or tucked away inside where large mirrors greet you. The interior is quite intimate, with space made available for maybe twenty people at most. However, I am not particularly fond of the patio-like furniture that somehow found its way into the interior dining area. The all-white and stainless steel decor also offers an air of sterility that I found a tad uninviting. But regardless, the establishment is certainly clean and the staff courteous.
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Les Gens Que J'Aime
Rue du Midi 15-17, 1000 Brussels, Belgium
(just south of La Bourse in the city centre)
If you should want to consume an everything bagel, or perhaps one baked from pureed olives, take a detour from your tour of the city center. Awaiting you at at Les Gens Que J'Aime is a list of gourmet bagel sandwiches. A toasted bagel, in combination with creamy brie and crunchy apple (drizzled in honey, no less) makes for a contrast of the senses that I have since developed a dangerous craving for.
The staff was the most inviting I have witnessed in all my dining experiences in Brussels thus far. And there is a certain charm that overtakes you when walking into a dining area littered with wooden school chairs from the 70s. The ambiance is definitely warmer than Sens, and their hours more accommodating (with food served from noon to well past ten in the evening).
**There are still two more establishments that I have yet to try: 1) The Coffee Company, just outside my school, and 2) a coffee/bagel establishment of whose name escapes me, located just opposite Luxembourg Station.**
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Oh--
And in case you were anxious about the bagel situation in Japan, surprised was I to find a plethora of local options.
Find your way to the refrigerated section of the grocery store and bagels await you somewhere between the pizza dough and ready-to-eat naan. They came individually wrapped in the following flavors (can you really label a bagel a flavor?): caramel, strawberry, berry-berry, mango, and chocolate. Oh, yeah, and plain was thrown in there somewhere, too.
If mango is not quite adventurous enough, try the bagel store at the basement of the JR Funabashi station. There, you can boast to your friends for having tried raisin pumpkin or green tea with white chocolate chunks. Then, if you should care to brave the madness that is Costco on a Saturday afternoon, you can purchase the ever-American Einstein's brand of cinnamon raisin, plain, onion, and cheese.
Or, if all else fails--perhaps this will satisfy you well enough:
when bagel supplies decline...
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A Reincarnation of the Two Fat Ladies--still British, still biking, just a different gender
Have you really made it this far in your reading?!
Thank you, devoted reader! To commend your dedicated efforts, I have provided a small clip of the visual kind, should your attention be waning.
Remember days of yonder Food Network TV when Yan Can Cook, Two Hot Tamales, and Two Fat Ladies reigned supreme?
Meet my recent discovery: The Hairy Bikers.
Keep an ear out for those harefooted similes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgQYBqO9q-8
Enjoy!
(I read the whole thing. Quiz me. QUIZ ME.)
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