I had the very fortunate opportunity to work as an English instructor this past year in Funabashi, Japan. My residence was just 35 minutes east of Tokyo by train—and only a two-minute walk to my local station: Magomezawa. I consider Magomezawa to be a suburb of Tokyo, though we probably had a few too many fields of daikon, broccoli, etc. to merit the title by American standards. Regardless, it was a town that I grew to love and whose people were very kind and welcoming.
I came to Japan not knowing the language, save for a few polite standards: hello, goodbye, thank you, you're welcome (even those I learned to vary according to the situation). For persons who wish to live in Japan, but are not familiar with the language prior to their departure, I hope to appease your concerns.
My advice: join or create an international society/drinking night—like this one here:
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| Tuesday nights in Magomezawa |
Or join an international organization. I was lucky to stumble upon KIFA (Kamagaya International Frienship Association) in the neighboring town. By way of my interaction with KIFA, I was asked to model a formal kimono for an obi-tying event. This experience undoubtedly strengthened my connection to Japan and its people--I felt truly welcomed and immersed.
Language classes are also advantageous; community centers often offer free lessons, or you can attend a language school (should you have the pocketbook to support the fees). Minna no hongo was a great learning tool for me, but nothing beats the actual practice of conversation. Find a buddy and do a language exchange at a cafe once a week. My biggest regret was not being more proactive. Oh, and be sure to establish a strong footing with hiragana and katakana. Then, with time, conquer the grammar structure and kanji. Ganbatte gozaimasu!
In regards to teaching, I give ample credit to my school managers and students for making my work exceptionally enjoyable and fulfilling. I taught at an Eikaiwa (English conversation school), so my hours ranged from 1 or 2pm to 8 or 9pm—a delightful schedule for someone who savors the luxury of sleeping in :-) I had anywhere from 6 to 8 classes a day, and between 1 to 6 students in each class. My youngest was 2 years old—a charming and cheeky cutie-pie; my oldest was in her 80s. I only met with the students one time a week, but there was great progress made!
And though I am quite happy to be home in America, I do miss life in Japan.
Japan: A year of favorites
I find it rather difficult to convey the exact sentiments Japan has instilled in me, but if I were to try, my best effort would consist of a series of pictures. I trust the following photographs will capture the spirit of my experiences and perhaps introduce interesting lifestyle practices, food, and places for any and all persons who find themselves in Japan.
Kasukabe Matsuri
(Kasukabe, Saitama prefecture--due north of Tokyo)
Kasukabe Matsuri (summer festival) holds a special place in my heart. It generally takes place in July, and I high recommend starting your day before sunset. You will find the carnival-like atmosphere reminiscent of American fairs--minus the rides and fareway games. I would go, if only for the assortment of food: yaki niku (grilled meat), tako yaki (pancake-like batter balls stuffed with octopus), okonomiyaki (grilled savory pancake), and any number of things skewed: pickled cucumbers, squid, jellyfish, mochi, pineapple, chocolate-covered bananas.
Be sure to go early enough in the day to see the dancers/taiko drum performers, and late enough to witness the dueling omikoshi (portable shrines). Oh, and people watching is a must.
Fuji-san: The Climb
As the Japanese people say, "a wise man climbs Mt. Fuji once; a fool climbs twice." Turns out, I am a wise (wo)man after all.
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| Gotemba trail head |
I took a night hike in hopes of viewing the sunset while on the summit. My two friends and I started sometime after 8pm and reached the top by 5am, continually on the move for the entire duration. After a quick photo-op or two, we descended for the next few hours, until finally reaching the 5th station (nearest bus pickup) just after 12p the next day. Needless to say, we did not sleep for over 30 hours. Ripobitan D, the genki/energy drink, was my trusted companion.
I must admit that I did not foresee Mt. Fuji to be as challenging as it was. The impressions I received from previous climbers made it appear as though Mt. Fuji was the hiker's equivalent to Disney World--crowded paths, food and bathroom stations along the way, a post office conveniently located at the summit. But the truth is, the mountain is unforgiving to the unprepared--and a few people die each year while climbing.
In addition to food and water, it is imperative to bring multiple layers of clothing--clothing that can withstand wind chills and rain. And even though we started with a balmy 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit at the foot of the mountain, the temperature dropped dramatically with our ascent, feeling more akin to 20-30 degrees. I also suggest bringing gaiters to keep the dust out. I was still trying to remove dirt and dust from my shoes, months after the climb and two cycles in the washing machine. You can also purchase walking sticks for about 1,000 yen. They assist in the hike, but the real treat is having them branded at each station for about 200 yen. Great souvenir to take home, so long as you manage to bring it on the airplane--or in my case--remember to bring it with you to the airport at all.
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| Sporting my hiking stick and a good seven layers of clothing |
Also--DO NOT ascend the Gotemba trail, lest you are a masochist and enjoy hiking up loosely-packed gravel at an insane incline...for the majority of your 8-10 hour climb. If anything, at least you can rest assured that the gravel you so despise to walk upon, when seated, actually feels oddly reminiscent of a bean-bag chair. I suppose the descent was therapeutic because the gravel cushioned my knees--just don't forget the gaiters.
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| I was not kidding. Check out the endless supply of gravel. |
Kaiten Sushi
Kaiten sushi (conveyor-belt style) continues to grow as a novelty restaurant in the states, so I'm told. But in Japan, it's part of the staple dining experience. The average sushi dish ranges from 80/100 yen to 300/400 yen for two pieces. Menus are extensive, so if they don't supply a picture-reference menu, or you forgot your Japanese-English dictionary, you will just have to close your eyes and say "dochira ni shiyou kana" (the Japanese equivalent to eenie meenie miny moe).
During my stay, I was able to decipher two types of kaiten sushi restaurants. The main difference: the means in which you order food, either in person or by computer. My favorite restaurant was just outside Funabashi station, right across from the 6-story Daiso (100 yen shop). It was an intimate venue with just one large circular table that sat about 25 people at a time. There was an open space in the middle of the table where the three chefs went to work. They would periodically place different dishes on the conveyor belt for anyone's choosing, or you could call out to them and place your order. I always started with the customary "sumimasen," followed by "hotate, kudasai" (excuse me. scallop please). A quick flip of the wrists and the chef passes me my delectable order.
For computer-operated dining, a friend and I stumbled upon a lovely joint in Kyoto--just outside Ryōan-ji (famous for their rock garden). This restaurant was much larger and the booths reminded me of a Denny's or Perkins. You no longer sat at a communal table and you really had no interaction with the chefs. The positive side of the experience, however, is testament to the fun ways in which the Japanese integrate multimedia. We had a private computer screen in which to select our food. Any dish along the conveyor belt was up for grabs, but if you ordered a specific item, it would arrive via conveyor belt to you with a little card to signal unto others that the food is reserved. My favorite part was at the end of the meal--you would deposit your plates into a slot just under the conveyor belt. A machine would count the number and for every five plates you ordered, you got one "spin" of the slot machine or any other variety of video games. Mario party is the closest example I can recall. If you should win a game, out comes a little toy. I had no such luck, but it was a delightful experience nevertheless.
Nara Deer and Daibutsu
(Due east of Osaka, South of Kyoto--not more than an hour by train)
If you are traveling to the Kansai area to visit Osaka or Kyoto, Nara is just a short ride away.
Nara is famous for Sika or spotted deer. They have become a popularized icon, such as the Shisa/Sisa have for Okinawa. There are designated "biscuit" vendors that sell wafer-like rounds to be fed to the deer. Any deer is up for grabs, if they haven't already started grabbing at you. Keep an eye out for the ones whose antlers have yet to be filed down. A nudge or two is not uncommon. And watch where you step.
I also have a great fondness for Nara's Daibutsu (Buddha). It's the largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana--and it is coincidentally housed in the largest wooden structure in the world. I believe the temple, Tōdai-ji, also serves as the Japanese headquarters of the Kegon school of Buddhism.
Ocean Park Expo
(Just outside Nago, Okinawa--about a two hour bus ride from Naha Airport)
Okinawa is the Japanese equivalent to Hawaii, for some. I suppose the colorful printed shirts, palm trees, rolling hills, and sun-kissed skin of the native Okinawan people might give an American visitor that impression.
Through a series of events, I came to stay at a resort located across from an area called Ocean Park Expo. My primary motive was to visit the whale sharks at the aquarium, but little did I know what a treasure I stumbled upon. The aquarium was delightful in itself--took only about 1.5 hours to thoroughly review--but there is so much to do in the surrounding area. They have plenty of free activities: a dolphin show, sea turtle and manatee viewing, gardens, a museum, a beach, and a living history area with replicas of pre-Edo and Edo period houses.
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| Stained glass in the entryway of the Tropical Dream Center |
My favorite site to visit was referred to as the Tropical Dream Center. Why they chose "dream center" as opposed to the words "botanical garden" is a question I never bothered to ask. Regardless of semantics, I highly recommend a visit. It is probably the most impressive, well-designed, and extensive botanical garden I have encountered--Edinburgh's Royal Botanical Gardens come in at a close second.
I arrived in the late afternoon to find only a handful of guests. The facility is so large, serene, and covered in flora, it feels as though you are walking on the set of Miyazaki Hayao's Laputa: Castle in the Sky. I traveled in early June, just after the rainy season, and the orchids were in full bloom. They also have a large atrium of exotic fruits and a few massive lily ponds scattered around. In all, I believe there are 14 stations/designated areas to visit. Oh, and a large tower from which you can view the surrounding area.
Okinawa also has some amazingly delicious food. One of their staple ingredients is goya (bitter melon). They also fancy taco rice, soki soba, and beni imo (purple sweet potato). Here are some photos to entice your taste buds to make a visit.
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| Red Soki Soba |
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| Taco Rice with Curry |
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| Beni Imo Tart |
Without question, Naha's Kokusai Dori (International Street), located by the airport, is the premiere shopping area of the city. Best to reserve your visit to this area for the day of your return--no sense in lugging all of your souvenirs around for the remainder of your trip. It's a bona-fide tourist trap, but I found the kitchy atmosphere to be quite entertaining. You'll find a great many shops with the same merchandise, but there are a few gems. Keep an eye out for the ceramics, kewpie, and shisa/sisa (a pair of lion-like dogs in the entryways or rooftops around the city). One keeps its mouth open to ward off evil, the other closed to keep good in.
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| Kewpie dressed in pig and shisa garb |
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| Goya bench, naturally |
Well, it's been a long-winded entry, but I hope this captures a Japan that you were not exposed to before.
Otsukaresamadeshita!
